Face to Face (almost)

Telepresence is aptly named, eh? In fact, it looks like we are already all sitting together back in Atlanta, but its not true. Not yet.

Its always been kinda funny telling people that both our dads work for the same company, but its times like these that Cisco's dual employment really comes in handy. And I can assure you, this is not a business presentation. We jump the pond first thing in the morning. See you on the flip.

DC

Swiss Update

A quick update on things here in Switzerland---I think we brought rainy season with us. Ever since we have been here it has been rainy and cold. The minor difference being that it gets dark here around 10PM instead of 630PM.

Also, we have word that the spears have arrived in Georgia without a hitch. If only Fed Ex knew.

DC

Reason #1 I feared I would not be allowed to exit the country

Because driving is such a colorful affair in Addis, our hosting organization recommends that ex-pats dont drive the final 4 weeks before departing the country. This seems to be an accepted precaution for many folks who are about to leave. Most of our friends practiced driving abstinence to ensure no bureaucratical snafus preventing them from their exit. Its commonly understood that driving accidents, violations, or other run-ins can flag someone's record and precipitate a scene at the Bole International Airport.

Considering we were one of very few teachers left on the compound once school completed, we had little choice but to drive. Had it not been for a small shred of decency, I would have never kept quiet about all those of our friends who resorted to taxis alone for the final month. I even occasionally thought to myself about them, "Suckers!"

Naturally enough, the Friday before our Monday departure was full of errands and trips all over town resolving an issue of spears (story forthcoming). My friend Zewdu and I were driving to Bole for a final lunch together. I left the decision to him and he chose Loza, whose lasagna is first class. En route, we drive through Meskel Square. As I am cutting across 3 lanes of traffic, a traffic cop runs out in the front of the Ford Ranger. Generally, the recommended action is to wave, swerve around him and be on your way. He is on foot after all. But the Bole road was clogged. Thus, I pulled over. He took my license. He filled out his report. He gave me a ticket.
Zewdu translate for me that I am at fault because I crossed a solid white line at the end of the intersection. I get out and began to plead argue with this policeman. As we debate, at least 3 other vehicles do the same thing. I am speechless. This is hysterical for so many reasons. In a world where all drivers routinely and flagrantly violate all sorts of serious driving regulations, I get nabbed for the most petty reason possible!

Zewdu states that I have 48 hours to pay the ticket, but since my flight is before the deadline, I should not pay it. Personally, I wanted to pay the thing off so no complications would emerge, but mainly so that I could keep my Ethiopian license. But by Monday, I realize there is simply not time. Not to mention the offices are across town, and no errands in Addis are quickly accomplished. I would have to fly with the delinquent fine and hope for the best.

DC

Reason #2 I feared I would not be allowed to exit the country

The Saga of the Spears....

Back in March a six foot spear was handed to me as a birthday present. Its craftsmanship and exotic feeling in my hand was sheer joy. Thus, when we went to Langano in June I purchased a second spear, this time 8 ft long.

Following other expat's lead, I decided to ship them home via PVC pipe, which of course meant that I would have to purchase three more spears at the Postabate shops to make the shipping costs worth it. I packaged them up and took a trip to the Post Office. I thought it must be customary to declare them appropriately as spears--the Post immediately said they do not ship weapons and that this pipe was far too long. They suggested DHL.

I knew DHL could ship them and that they would ensure their safe arrival back in Georgia. Since the whole spear declaration did not fare well, this time I would tell them they were traditional sticks, dulas, canes. This did not help--DHL only ships 1.5 Meters.

As a last resort, we tried a second DHL location in the merkato. This time I opted to stay in the car, and let the pretty blonde give a go. Twenty-five minutes later she emerged, empty handed. Undoubtedly, this girl can do anything, while I am denied at every turn.
Later that Friday afternoon we get a call from DHL to say that the main office has contacted them. They will no longer be able to ship the spears. However, the worker states that he will attempt to repackage the spears and shorten the PVC pipe so that it will meet standard requirements. I am equal parts amazed and nervous because we fly out Monday evening. He will call us back before then.

The call comes in around 3PM Monday afternoon--No dice. We race back to the Merkato and grab the spears and a significant refund of ET Birr. Back at Bingham, I am up against the clock--I remove the spear heads from the longer sticks and cut half a meter off the PVC pipe. I call Lufthansa and they said a stamped/sealed receipt would be required to verify that there are no antiques or museum property included. We have a forgery cast and the PVC pipe is now much shorter. Everyone witnessing this spectacle is laughing-- spilling long jokes about the faranj and absurd souvenirs. Of course, I have to agree.

Considering the amount of baggage, video equipment, minamin, that we have already, I am all but set to resign and leave them in Addis. But how can I at this stage? Its too late to abandon this fool's errand. So we trudge to the airport with a total of 9 bags between the two of us. The Lufthansa agent, who is wearing a EAL badge, makes no mention of the fact that we check 5 bags. Moreover, he does not even ask what the PVC contains. They ship for free, and not a word is spoken regarding my driving status.

Not only did the shipment arrive in Geneva but its now on its way to my parents in Atlanta, again free of charge. B says she will not believe it until she sees it in Georgia. I would tend to agree, but now that they are safely described as 'sporting goods' and no longer coming from a country in Africa, I expect Fed Ex to have 'chigger yellum.' In theory, they will arrive home before we will.

DC

Final Post from the Horn

Apologies for all the frivolous top 10 lists, so perhaps a little background to fill things in a bit. Its going to be difficult to leave Ethiopia, Monday night. Without a doubt, this six months has had a profound impact on the way we see things. A little tweaking to the lens through which we perceive. Its been a fascinating, mindboggling, and challenging environment. While neither of us are in any real hurry to return to the western-affluent-civilized world, what is the one thing that we will be overjoyed to have back? The one thing that we are somewhat craving? Come on, be honest, because we really do love it here (despite what our national readership suggests).

I dont mind the oblivious drivers who would never imagine looking one way before pulling out, or heaven forbid, using their turn signals. I dont detest the lack of infrastructure (transportation, communication, other systems of efficiency to name a few). I probably can get by with shoddy to nonexistent internet, however much I groan. I can withstand the ubiquitous horns and necessity for earplugs to sleep at night. I can even adapt to the immersive and omnipresent smog of pollution. *I should note that this is the very thing that Mrs. C simply cannot withstand. For her, pollution being the thick coat-of-soot-on-your-face-right-after-a-shower that it is, is a significant coffin nail.

For me, the main issue of disenchantment is the lack of anonymity, the impossibility of invisibility--for the white faranj. I look forward to be able to walk down the street and no one notice me. I dont want anyone to shout or point or stare or follow me. I cherish the thought of being completely ignored. At this point, I'd like to take some lessons from Mr Yorke on how to completely disappear. Funny to think that being average, standard and generic could ever be such a high priority.


While we are very excited about speedy internet, text messages, family time, 110W, no diesel pollution, reliable utilities, old friends, sushi, anonymity, specialty grocery items---overall, we are sad to leave here. I have retained over 10GBs of selected photos and 17 mini DV tapes of film. I suppose many pros could shoot that in a span of a couple weeks, but its an amount of footage that will take an enormous amount of sifting, even after all the undesirable stuff has already been deleted. That translates to almost 4000 useable photos and some 17 hours of video but no, I dont intend to profit by displaying the sights of what I have captured. I cant even imagine thinking that way. The thing that is so phenomenal about Ethiopia is that people really are rich in human terms. My motivation surpasses simply showing an African's plight, but instead the grandeur beneath it. Despite the abject despondency of their living situation, the folks are smiling, full of life and vitality. Its something that many Westerners cant fathom--a life apart from material comfort, minamin. Blessings to all the Ethiopian who have enriched our lives and challenged us to see the human condition in new ways.

DC
See other faranj exits posts here and here.

Top Considerations when moving to Ethiopia

Top 10 Reasons to Move to Ethiopia

10. Insanely cheap eating (meal, drink, and coffee can cost 1USD per person)
9. Lose weight quick (of the GI variety)
8. The slow pace of life
7. Ethiopians are gracious, kind (unless on the street) and very attractive
6. Labor is cheap (get your own houseworker, guards)
5. The lack of advertising (unless you can read Amharic!)
4. The overall cost of living can be very affordable
3. If you have ever wanted to be stared and oogled at.
2. Coke doesnt have high fructose corn syrup
1. The sublime climate

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Top 10 Reasons not to move to Ethiopia

10. Your body can handle only so much Injara b wat
9. Lose weight quick (of the GI variety)
8. If you take it personally when drivers dont use their turn signals, pull out in front of you, and run you off the road
7. Cold and depressing rainy season
6. General inefficiency tends to be thematic among the bureaucracy
5. The slow pace of life
4. If you prefer to brush your teeth with tap water
3. If you like simple errands to be just that--simple
2. If you have asthma or for some reason need clean, breathable air
1. If you take it personally when every single person yells "Foreigner" at you

But if you are really wondering what to really think about living in Africa, read How to write about Africa. Brilliant.

DC