tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-350666202024-03-19T14:33:20.846-05:00The Collins in Addis Ababadaniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.comBlogger47125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-32475974436508995092007-07-17T08:09:00.000-05:002007-07-17T17:19:23.099-05:00Face to Face (almost)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuqasF8wF4WL-WBgWOi-XLC59-cdo-sDhb1VaqE9-P72CiSO5N2ipZWIzBfoQyVjiIydQ6qsUonsHO2GhkvdPi-kuqGRIIqi9s7xyr2vhcJFHm8tvcVqwjY-HnKU9_czolzrHxRw/s1600-h/IMG_5618.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuqasF8wF4WL-WBgWOi-XLC59-cdo-sDhb1VaqE9-P72CiSO5N2ipZWIzBfoQyVjiIydQ6qsUonsHO2GhkvdPi-kuqGRIIqi9s7xyr2vhcJFHm8tvcVqwjY-HnKU9_czolzrHxRw/s400/IMG_5618.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5088157721588487410" /></a><br />Telepresence is aptly named, eh? In fact, it looks like we are already all sitting together back in Atlanta, but its not true. Not yet.<br /><br />Its always been kinda funny telling people that both our dads work for the same company, but its times like these that Cisco's dual employment really comes in handy. And I can assure you, this is not a business presentation. We jump the pond first thing in the morning. See you on the flip.<br /><br />DCdaniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-65072832018874530722007-07-10T17:34:00.000-05:002007-07-10T17:40:06.770-05:00Swiss Update<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG48ScfraEp43pwmmLuYtaJi90v5WxOrZtb1HTztBqtP8nRD4zBsPO8axir6hwMLkwBGefXXCBAMHN_M2DTfmgpXqUeiOMSgLy_iF4LBgwRjhDRds14ZZdTzmC4IrgQ2WVgNbE-A/s1600-h/signs.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG48ScfraEp43pwmmLuYtaJi90v5WxOrZtb1HTztBqtP8nRD4zBsPO8axir6hwMLkwBGefXXCBAMHN_M2DTfmgpXqUeiOMSgLy_iF4LBgwRjhDRds14ZZdTzmC4IrgQ2WVgNbE-A/s400/signs.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085700863799817346" /></a><br />A quick update on things here in Switzerland---I think we brought rainy season with us. Ever since we have been here it has been rainy and cold. The minor difference being that it gets dark here around 10PM instead of 630PM. <br /><br />Also, we have word that the spears have arrived in Georgia without a hitch. If only Fed Ex knew.<br /><br />DCdaniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-3355738871147169502007-07-06T15:42:00.000-05:002007-07-06T16:44:34.195-05:00Reason #1 I feared I would not be allowed to exit the country<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3mG8FrVp-vHc2Zp5KwqzzMLE0bRkWwDAVZL4qsXKMMBHriKf1esn9zPfyO3U7JsNfu-xsbdpjQyjz3oiI-cZAA4ga9Udw8lHvIvTunNE9YFqmcKAPNXHBRTw86_QsZeBDGZPMBA/s1600-h/drive.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3mG8FrVp-vHc2Zp5KwqzzMLE0bRkWwDAVZL4qsXKMMBHriKf1esn9zPfyO3U7JsNfu-xsbdpjQyjz3oiI-cZAA4ga9Udw8lHvIvTunNE9YFqmcKAPNXHBRTw86_QsZeBDGZPMBA/s320/drive.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084187931505030242" /></a>Because driving is such a colorful affair in Addis, our hosting organization recommends that ex-pats dont drive the final 4 weeks before departing the country. This seems to be an accepted precaution for many folks who are about to leave. Most of our friends practiced driving abstinence to ensure no bureaucratical snafus preventing them from their exit. Its commonly understood that driving accidents, violations, or other run-ins can flag someone's record and precipitate a scene at the Bole International Airport. <br /><br />Considering we were one of very few teachers left on the compound once school completed, we had little choice but to drive. Had it not been for a small shred of decency, I would have never kept quiet about all those of our friends who resorted to taxis alone for the final month. I even occasionally thought to myself about them, "Suckers!"<br /><br />Naturally enough, the Friday before our Monday departure was full of errands and trips all over town resolving an issue of spears (story forthcoming). My friend Zewdu and I were driving to Bole for a final lunch together. I left the decision to him and he chose Loza, whose lasagna is first class. En route, we drive through Meskel Square. As I am cutting across 3 lanes of traffic, a traffic cop runs out in the front of the Ford Ranger. Generally, the recommended action is to wave, swerve around him and be on your way. He is on foot after all. But the Bole road was clogged. Thus, I pulled over. He took my license. He filled out his report. He gave me a ticket.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoHxAHkr5B0BEDxQNMLAFtvbPXgYeVOKSjqahij3Nr7HbTabozOA81-7zmcikN8TVVb6k1UUMkv-3WxOnvUQRexlOw24MHaTav6LxosDGm7-FKXIk0wJh4U_b1k449J1zn4FSufA/s1600-h/zewduy.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoHxAHkr5B0BEDxQNMLAFtvbPXgYeVOKSjqahij3Nr7HbTabozOA81-7zmcikN8TVVb6k1UUMkv-3WxOnvUQRexlOw24MHaTav6LxosDGm7-FKXIk0wJh4U_b1k449J1zn4FSufA/s320/zewduy.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084194270876759154" /></a><br />Zewdu translate for me that I am at fault because I crossed a solid white line at the end of the intersection. I get out and began to plead argue with this policeman. As we debate, at least 3 other vehicles do the same thing. I am speechless. This is hysterical for so many reasons. In a world where all drivers routinely and flagrantly violate all sorts of serious driving regulations, I get nabbed for the most petty reason possible!<br /><br />Zewdu states that I have 48 hours to pay the ticket, but since my flight is before the deadline, I should not pay it. Personally, I wanted to pay the thing off so no complications would emerge, but mainly so that I could keep my Ethiopian license. But by Monday, I realize there is simply not time. Not to mention the offices are across town, and no errands in Addis are quickly accomplished. I would have to fly with the delinquent fine and hope for the best. <br /><br />DCdaniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-27283654615281732182007-07-06T15:19:00.000-05:002007-07-06T16:47:09.727-05:00Reason #2 I feared I would not be allowed to exit the countryThe Saga of the Spears.... <br /><br />Back in March a six foot spear was handed to me as a birthday present. Its craftsmanship and exotic feeling in my hand was sheer joy. Thus, when we went to Langano in June I purchased a second spear, this time 8 ft long. <br /><br />Following other expat's lead, I decided to ship them home via PVC pipe, which of course meant that I would have to purchase three more spears at the Postabate shops to make the shipping costs worth it. I packaged them up and took a trip to the Post Office. I thought it must be customary to declare them appropriately as spears--the Post immediately said they do not ship weapons and that this pipe was far too long. They suggested DHL.<br /><br />I knew DHL could ship them and that they would ensure their safe arrival back in Georgia. Since the whole spear declaration did not fare well, this time I would tell them they were traditional sticks, dulas, canes. This did not help--DHL only ships 1.5 Meters.<br /><br />As a last resort, we tried a second DHL location in the merkato. This time I opted to stay in the car, and let the pretty blonde give a go. Twenty-five minutes later she emerged, empty handed. Undoubtedly, this girl can do anything, while I am denied at every turn. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicAzSlIUw_0Cu27NtI3k7Z5cSxkLMDNnLk_ECMAoMZezk_-Aoqfw9qwqawhUWoYGNxO5mdzkTFd_4qW7nzbhAuLjRQ-O2ttjEG5VQsrUdilCmQvKEszxXahKNVn88Y4sQEv-ZVEQ/s1600-h/spear.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicAzSlIUw_0Cu27NtI3k7Z5cSxkLMDNnLk_ECMAoMZezk_-Aoqfw9qwqawhUWoYGNxO5mdzkTFd_4qW7nzbhAuLjRQ-O2ttjEG5VQsrUdilCmQvKEszxXahKNVn88Y4sQEv-ZVEQ/s320/spear.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084182846263751762" /></a><br />Later that Friday afternoon we get a call from DHL to say that the main office has contacted them. They will no longer be able to ship the spears. However, the worker states that he will attempt to repackage the spears and shorten the PVC pipe so that it will meet standard requirements. I am equal parts amazed and nervous because we fly out Monday evening. He will call us back before then.<br /><br />The call comes in around 3PM Monday afternoon--No dice. We race back to the Merkato and grab the spears and a significant refund of ET Birr. Back at Bingham, I am up against the clock--I remove the spear heads from the longer sticks and cut half a meter off the PVC pipe. I call Lufthansa and they said a stamped/sealed receipt would be required to verify that there are no antiques or museum property included. We have a forgery cast and the PVC pipe is now much shorter. Everyone witnessing this spectacle is laughing-- spilling long jokes about the faranj and absurd souvenirs. Of course, I have to agree. <br /><br />Considering the amount of baggage, video equipment, minamin, that we have already, I am all but set to resign and leave them in Addis. But how can I at this stage? Its too late to abandon this fool's errand. So we trudge to the airport with a total of 9 bags between the two of us. The Lufthansa agent, who is wearing a EAL badge, makes no mention of the fact that we check 5 bags. Moreover, he does not even ask what the PVC contains. They ship for free, and not a word is spoken regarding my driving status.<br /><br />Not only did the shipment arrive in Geneva but its now on its way to my parents in Atlanta, again free of charge. B says she will not believe it until she sees it in Georgia. I would tend to agree, but now that they are safely described as 'sporting goods' and no longer coming from a country in Africa, I expect Fed Ex to have 'chigger yellum.' In theory, they will arrive home before we will.<br /><br />DCdaniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-37543395351151466572007-07-01T13:34:00.000-05:002007-07-06T12:54:37.726-05:00Final Post from the Horn<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOWIQyek6ayLrEpvSeXfeNyOBxqzKUcevP7orruzTM6OZdvjMVm_3LknbMYix0Nk0DzhKdiTtusyHQpfudpQt-5mwjUgflpM7dQjvr_CQ2eBQANINSwCcXhwfRigfx1IJ9Pvjogg/s1600-h/basket.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOWIQyek6ayLrEpvSeXfeNyOBxqzKUcevP7orruzTM6OZdvjMVm_3LknbMYix0Nk0DzhKdiTtusyHQpfudpQt-5mwjUgflpM7dQjvr_CQ2eBQANINSwCcXhwfRigfx1IJ9Pvjogg/s400/basket.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5082324392439936050" /></a> Apologies for all the frivolous top 10 lists, so perhaps a little background to fill things in a bit. Its going to be difficult to leave Ethiopia, Monday night. Without a doubt, this six months has had a profound impact on the way we see things. A little tweaking to the lens through which we perceive. Its been a fascinating, mindboggling, and challenging environment. While neither of us are in any real hurry to return to the western-affluent-civilized world, what is the one thing that we will be overjoyed to have back? The one thing that we are somewhat craving? Come on, be honest, because we really do love it here (despite what our national readership suggests).<br /><br />I dont mind the oblivious drivers who would never imagine looking one way before pulling out, or heaven forbid, using their turn signals. I dont detest the lack of infrastructure (transportation, communication, other systems of efficiency to name a few). I probably can get by with shoddy to nonexistent internet, however much I groan. I can withstand the ubiquitous horns and necessity for earplugs to sleep at night. I can even adapt to the immersive and omnipresent smog of pollution. *I should note that this is the very thing that Mrs. C simply cannot withstand. For her, pollution being the thick coat-of-soot-on-your-face-right-after-a-shower that it is, is a significant coffin nail.<br /><br />For me, the main issue of disenchantment is the lack of anonymity, the impossibility of invisibility--for the white faranj. I look forward to be able to walk down the street and no one notice me. I dont want anyone to shout or point or stare or follow me. I cherish the thought of being completely ignored. At this point, I'd like to take some lessons from Mr Yorke on how to completely disappear. Funny to think that being average, standard and generic could ever be such a high priority.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrmzNzFkPIqKl3JsZO1B0FE0gRzh0c_8kLem5kajjYblTorXVyKTlv5DdgjlI_1DI9BORZv840gVf2VJor4GC9_Z_MeZJ4xXswo69KVcQVdul1LjeGq-cRHpn7ghDyquEqj-YJAQ/s1600-h/merk.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrmzNzFkPIqKl3JsZO1B0FE0gRzh0c_8kLem5kajjYblTorXVyKTlv5DdgjlI_1DI9BORZv840gVf2VJor4GC9_Z_MeZJ4xXswo69KVcQVdul1LjeGq-cRHpn7ghDyquEqj-YJAQ/s320/merk.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5082316412390700050" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjG-lMBDZtYn4b2S5mnx-xzztDvMIdPnjG1WWMYfnBOiRr2AKhptKvL76e7y3Gq5CEZ0h_NTFhUBKXdcM98WO8B-6DkFt5quPETqzrfY5Z2uG-QaOs-iz9XQvdckxUGoknAc65jg/s1600-h/piaz.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjG-lMBDZtYn4b2S5mnx-xzztDvMIdPnjG1WWMYfnBOiRr2AKhptKvL76e7y3Gq5CEZ0h_NTFhUBKXdcM98WO8B-6DkFt5quPETqzrfY5Z2uG-QaOs-iz9XQvdckxUGoknAc65jg/s320/piaz.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5082315793915409410" /></a><br />While we are very excited about speedy internet, text messages, family time, 110W, no diesel pollution, reliable utilities, old friends, sushi, anonymity, specialty grocery items---overall, we are sad to leave here. I have retained over 10GBs of selected photos and 17 mini DV tapes of film. I suppose many pros could shoot that in a span of a couple weeks, but its an amount of footage that will take an enormous amount of sifting, even after all the undesirable stuff has already been deleted. That translates to almost 4000 useable photos and some 17 hours of video but no, I dont intend to profit by displaying the sights of what I have captured. I cant even imagine thinking that way. The thing that is so phenomenal about Ethiopia is that people really are rich in human terms. My motivation surpasses simply showing an African's plight, but instead the grandeur beneath it. Despite the abject despondency of their living situation, the folks are smiling, full of life and vitality. Its something that many Westerners cant fathom--a life apart from material comfort, minamin. Blessings to all the Ethiopian who have enriched our lives and challenged us to see the human condition in new ways.<br /><br />DC<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1o7FbiFaN2aE6j3_5ecAdy7jDMrrx9olN02UNynciVfUM6EyFDDlUsTqeGUb2DE4pJKmvKJaRXr5CxTAGATi2zKWryMB-4V6ntoNdUb-WOeaKhWoK5suiJ02eVFa1aE9s3fL9oA/s1600-h/et.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1o7FbiFaN2aE6j3_5ecAdy7jDMrrx9olN02UNynciVfUM6EyFDDlUsTqeGUb2DE4pJKmvKJaRXr5CxTAGATi2zKWryMB-4V6ntoNdUb-WOeaKhWoK5suiJ02eVFa1aE9s3fL9oA/s320/et.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5082325762534503490" /></a><br />See other faranj exits posts <a href="http://www.meskelsquare.com/archives/2007/06/leaving.html">here</a> and <a href="http://addisblog.typepad.com/luoma_addis_blog/2007/06/what-would-you-.html">here</a>.daniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-54744626907755533842007-07-01T07:22:00.000-05:002007-07-01T07:54:48.968-05:00Top Considerations when moving to Ethiopia<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizU-r12GFswkABubZgacKAFIHjnJGpLsKy4c7kJp7S4KG2SK8qLnr42LCmElbyyFFfhyphenhyphennnwO7fdtIPyOAYlnT-s3Y0dftsyY1L_aNSJKZ_606H6nhPMHc3xNnNEbEktQcfdi3vjQ/s1600-h/man.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizU-r12GFswkABubZgacKAFIHjnJGpLsKy4c7kJp7S4KG2SK8qLnr42LCmElbyyFFfhyphenhyphennnwO7fdtIPyOAYlnT-s3Y0dftsyY1L_aNSJKZ_606H6nhPMHc3xNnNEbEktQcfdi3vjQ/s400/man.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5082206740400796642" /></a><br />Top 10 Reasons to Move to Ethiopia<br /><br />10. Insanely cheap eating (meal, drink, and coffee can cost 1USD per person) <br />9. Lose weight quick (of the GI variety)<br />8. The slow pace of life<br />7. Ethiopians are gracious, kind (unless on the street) and very attractive<br />6. Labor is cheap (get your own houseworker, guards)<br />5. The lack of advertising (unless you can read Amharic!)<br />4. The overall cost of living can be very affordable<br />3. If you have ever wanted to be stared and oogled at.<br />2. Coke doesnt have high fructose corn syrup<br />1. The sublime climate<br /><br /> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~<br /><br />Top 10 Reasons not to move to Ethiopia <br /><br />10. Your body can handle only so much Injara b wat<br />9. Lose weight quick (of the GI variety)<br />8. If you take it personally when drivers dont use their turn signals, pull out in front of you, and run you off the road<br />7. Cold and depressing rainy season<br />6. General inefficiency tends to be thematic among the bureaucracy<br />5. The slow pace of life <br />4. If you prefer to brush your teeth with tap water<br />3. If you like simple errands to be just that--simple<br />2. If you have asthma or for some reason need clean, breathable air<br />1. If you take it personally when every single person yells "Foreigner" at you <br /><br />But if you are really wondering what to really think about living in Africa, read <a href="http://www.granta.com/extracts/2615">How to write about Africa</a>. Brilliant. <br /><br />DCdaniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-83635702810122915522007-06-29T01:10:00.000-05:002007-06-29T01:31:17.192-05:00Top 10 favorite Amharic Words<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiL2antVryKwXubLB-UwfThBMQ6gYOC60_ScKfEqkwC03DdyWjdkohR2kcCI3_DtTRoimXQ4KI1aU1oiOKrF03Jl2C_HkUef43wc1T3JQRLI-IfoIqypPa-RZgKexOje7hOz2vkQ/s1600-h/IMG_0854.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiL2antVryKwXubLB-UwfThBMQ6gYOC60_ScKfEqkwC03DdyWjdkohR2kcCI3_DtTRoimXQ4KI1aU1oiOKrF03Jl2C_HkUef43wc1T3JQRLI-IfoIqypPa-RZgKexOje7hOz2vkQ/s200/IMG_0854.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5081367628345209810" /></a>These may be the centerpieces of my Amharic, as I try to use these on a regular basis. I hope to retain them as a staple of my vocabulary. <br /><br />10. Icka -- stuff, things<br />9. Rabash -- bold, tricky, cunning, crafty, downright sneaky, mischievous <br />8. Ishi --- ok, thanks, fine, I understand, fine, <br />7. Shintabait -- outhouse or toilet<br />6. Wushet -- Lies<br />5. Bakah -- Enough<br />4. Chigger Yellum -- No problem<br />3. Ow -- Yes<br />2. dabtara -- chorister, poet, dancer, herbologist, scribe, wizard<br />1. shamaggelly --- elder, old person <br /><br />So, to give an affirmative answer, just make like you have been hurt. Number 6 and 7 just have the most appropriate onomatopoeia. Put some of these together for the endlessly useful parting catch phrase "Ishi bakah ciao" to indicate "ok, thats enough, bye!"<br /><br />DCdaniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-28619647452638838592007-06-28T05:45:00.000-05:002007-06-28T10:49:44.684-05:00Apprehending AbyssiniaWith five days left in country, its time to begin the dismount. So I will repeat what Donald Levine said 40 years ago: Ethiopia "impresses me as endlessly fascinating." Particularly by the way things have developed and the things that have not developed. The fact that Ethiopia was the second Christian nation in the history of the world. The fact that it is one of two African countries to have been never colonized. The fact that it may be one of the safest cities in Africa AND one of the most sublime climates in the world. The fact that it is the 3rd highest foreign aid recipient in the world (after Afganistan and you guessed it, Iraq). Addis Ababa is a city of juxtaposition--it is a place of extreme contrasts. But in the meantime, some other fascinations, observations, intrigues:<br /><br />---Ethiopians scorn eating while walking or moving about. However, Ethiopians freely urinate in public places openly without so much as a second thought (or decent concealment).<br /><br />---Drivers are afraid of pedestrians while pedestrians are afraid of......rain? (as the saying suggests).<br /><br />---People live securely behind gated, guarded walls while animals roam the streets freely. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvzkRFX3zAGdUsSbnt5svN1kNarxJjcI_Y0kKLjRPNx2P9FrM0RLn5Njt7geObijwXGBz3l9BotfsTfFIpZHYVPUwZh7wFlKJSfpMr2wY7WzLVWKAl8lLq0NzjjqKt_-LNEaNDcQ/s1600-h/gate.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvzkRFX3zAGdUsSbnt5svN1kNarxJjcI_Y0kKLjRPNx2P9FrM0RLn5Njt7geObijwXGBz3l9BotfsTfFIpZHYVPUwZh7wFlKJSfpMr2wY7WzLVWKAl8lLq0NzjjqKt_-LNEaNDcQ/s200/gate.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5081069587679638450" /></a><br />---Ethiopians are more likely to pay for multiple shoe shines per week while foregoing all but the cheapest food available.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjECXbJwbB3MBn7O_mAmfg51hPH5mkRGbYnBYHZe8XTliUScBR1_mn3d9BMJt6fg18MGYvLMwfGgGBxjIwUwg03m4F9skOIQJOFcRgr7kgga6u8FdqEeyYMEt3B5dlBSmN6O7b8YQ/s1600-h/IMG_0909.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjECXbJwbB3MBn7O_mAmfg51hPH5mkRGbYnBYHZe8XTliUScBR1_mn3d9BMJt6fg18MGYvLMwfGgGBxjIwUwg03m4F9skOIQJOFcRgr7kgga6u8FdqEeyYMEt3B5dlBSmN6O7b8YQ/s200/IMG_0909.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5081081055242318786" /></a><br />---Look down the street and you will see men holding hands with men while women are carrying backbreaking loads. <a href="http://lh4.google.com/ashercollins/ReSGOKk3YLI/AAAAAAAAAto/CadtZnViRz4/IMG_1405.JPG?imgmax=640"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px;" src="http://lh4.google.com/ashercollins/ReSGOKk3YLI/AAAAAAAAAto/CadtZnViRz4/IMG_1405.JPG?imgmax=640" border="0" alt="" /></a> I often wonder about the dynamics of Ethiopian development since it was never colonized. Obviously, its something to be proud of, but what I would like to know--has its independence been more fruitful than the seemingly positive by-products of colonization like infrastructure and civilized drivers? What do you think?<br /><br />DCdaniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-72128590663983933652007-06-26T10:46:00.000-05:002007-06-26T15:52:00.150-05:00There is No Me Without You<a href="http://lh4.google.com/image/ashercollins/RoFmd5nbcDI/AAAAAAAABK4/6J2t18Ec4cw/IMG_5299.JPG?imgmax=640"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ashercollins/RoFmd5nbcDI/AAAAAAAABK4/6J2t18Ec4cw/IMG_5299.JPG?imgmax=640" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />"I am not sick, its just too cold!" Haregewoin assures us from her bed at 10 AM when we finally arrive at the <a href="http://www.awmosa.org/"> AWMOSA </a> compound (its taken us three attempts). She is all bundled up under blankets, but cheerful and warm despite the rainy season chill. She welcomes us in and has coffee made for us. When we tell her we are from Georgia, her face glows and she leans up from her bed: "I am going there very soon!" She then tells us the story of a 1 year old orphan who was raped when she was 8 months old. Haregewoin is going to take her to the states for corrective surgery sometime in the next month.<br /><br />Looking around the compound, we are flooded with all the sensory images from when we first read <a href="http://www.amazon.com/There-No-Me-Without-You/dp/1596912936/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/102-0318352-1393707?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1182885603&sr=8-1">There is No Me without You</a>. In fact, it almost feels like we have been here before. Haregewoin is as magnetic and charming as MFG suggests, which is not surprising considering her spot-on rainy season description.<br /><a href="http://lh5.google.com/image/ashercollins/RoFtYJnbcLI/AAAAAAAABL8/0Eehz1U5eIc/IMG_5326.JPG?imgmax=576"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ashercollins/RoFtYJnbcLI/AAAAAAAABL8/0Eehz1U5eIc/IMG_5326.JPG?imgmax=576" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />As it turns out, its good we visited the orphanage today, because they are relocating next week. Her landlord just raised the rent 30%. In fact, most of the beds have already been moved and she is not accepting any more children until she settles in the new location down the street. <br /><br />Since the girls have already moved to the new home, there is only a few boys left on the compound. Four of the boys are brothers and will be heading to Australia in a few weeks for their newly adopted home. <br /><br /><a href="http://lh6.google.com/image/ashercollins/RoFoOZnbcFI/AAAAAAAABLI/mgzQ4bmFcYY/IMG_5302.JPG?imgmax=640"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ashercollins/RoFoOZnbcFI/AAAAAAAABLI/mgzQ4bmFcYY/IMG_5302.JPG?imgmax=640" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />As we leave, she asks for our contact information to have during her stay in Atlanta. When asked about how she likes the states, she says she does not like the long journey or the cold weather but has no problem talking to large groups of people. We tell her that we hope to see her while in Georgia, and that she won't have to worry about the cold.<br /><br />DCdaniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-698178752979969102007-06-16T06:05:00.000-05:002007-06-19T02:38:27.246-05:00Rainy Season<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZTMVDV2sCf4a6FYOviSfOpmR_Jtc8SYhb_S9m4Pi4o9HeorKYsXXf1ox8aTT-tp0Ea5tWVmcSphglIANuaxJLdEeEE7_uvT987guGqu18YMd3_jT-zK8eZnY5WITWRK2KW20qMw/s1600-h/rain.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZTMVDV2sCf4a6FYOviSfOpmR_Jtc8SYhb_S9m4Pi4o9HeorKYsXXf1ox8aTT-tp0Ea5tWVmcSphglIANuaxJLdEeEE7_uvT987guGqu18YMd3_jT-zK8eZnY5WITWRK2KW20qMw/s320/rain.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5077674580480100722" /></a>When we moved here, loads of folks told us it would get cold during rainy season. We smirked, and quietly laughed. Even at night, although the guards would wear Siberian trenchcoats with hooded gabbies and whatever blankets they could wrap up in, I would wear a light shirt and jeans. But every once and a while, the night air would carry a little bite if you didnt have on sleeves.<br /><br />The last week of school took the jump. When the final bell would ring at 3:20, it would start raining heavy. As soon as everyone would reach their taxis and depart the compound, the rain would be gone. Clear skies again by 3:45.<br /><br />Today I am wearing a sweater and wool socks. Rainy season seems to have been graciously late this year (so I am told). It seems that the teachers who left early missed the brunt of it. I was told that if its raining in the morning, it will most likely rain all day. Otherwise, it will rain in the afternoon.<br /><br />This morning, it was raining, and my wool socks and sweater dont seem to be getting the job done. Its not that its that cold by definition. Instead, its the damp cold that gets in your bones. Meanwhile, I can think of at least one friend back home driving around the GH topless in his jeep loving on the summer heat.<br /><br />DC<br /><br />[obviously, the photo is a poor indication of what the torrents of rain can look like]daniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-45252805760073702732007-06-15T06:33:00.000-05:002007-06-15T08:47:44.808-05:00School's out (for the summer)<a href="http://lh5.google.com/image/ashercollins/RnJ7m5nbb0I/AAAAAAAABI4/kNScyNBGbD4/IMG_5198.JPG?imgmax=576"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ashercollins/RnJ7m5nbb0I/AAAAAAAABI4/kNScyNBGbD4/IMG_5198.JPG?imgmax=576" border="0" alt="" /></a> Today was the last day of class, hence the Alice Cooper title, and now we can really quote the Ethiopian's favorite bit of scripture: "it is finished!" I pulled some late nighters this week working on the Bingham video---today was the deadline for a screening at the farewell chapel. This of course meant that I would have to have something respectable to show for myself and would not have the pleasure of continually putting it off and off any longer.<br /><br />Its hard to say if you are ever fully satisfied with something that you spend such enormous energy on, but it has reached the point where it is leaving less and less for me to gripe about after viewing it. Once its reached a consensus as to its completion, we will put it up online on <a href="http://www.faithwebsites.com/binghamacademy/">Bingham's new site</a>.<br /><br />With loads of folk's help, from a variety of continents and with a variety of content, the promotional piece runs just over 5 minutes. The response was overwhelming, but I still just barely managed to corral my Grade 8 class together one last time for a photo before they escaped for the summer. There was a luncheon afterwards to send off all the teachers who are not returning next year. Half a dozen of them are leaving tonight--which means the compound will be more or less ours for the remaining two weeks.<br /><br />DCdaniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-30648457067666466362007-06-13T09:19:00.000-05:002007-06-13T09:50:38.736-05:00Shopping in Addis<a href="http://lh4.google.com/image/ashercollins/RdnD1XFZYJI/AAAAAAAAAqU/WK71qeuHqe4/IMG_0933.JPG?imgmax=640"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ashercollins/RdnD1XFZYJI/AAAAAAAAAqU/WK71qeuHqe4/IMG_0933.JPG?imgmax=640" border="0" alt="" /></a>Shopping in Addis Ababa, I have realized, is like going to yard sales on Saturdays back home. Or perhaps the more fitting way we refer to our great pastime, garage sailing. <br />Note the top ten similarities:<br /><br />1. To do it right, you should reserve the whole day.<br />2. You never know what you might to find, even at the dodgiest of places. <br />3. You never know how much they are going to charge for things on a given day.<br />4. If you dont buy it when you see it the first time, it may never be there again. <br />5. Sometimes you can even find brand new things and things that have not been opened before. <br />6. You may or may not need to ask 3 or 4 people to explain the origin of an item.<br />7. Items can be displayed just about anywhere, for example the sidewalk, streetside or elsewhere.<br />8. If you are hoping to find one thing in specific, your chances are significantly reduced.<br />9. There is generally at least one person who wants to stay in the car at the sight of some of the stores. <br />10. Haggling is the name of the game.<br /><br />Now if we can just find out a way to listen to Car Talk on the way in between Fantu and Bambis.<br /><br />DCdaniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-49344971151841068682007-06-11T16:20:00.000-05:002007-06-13T11:01:24.761-05:00Addis BroadsideHeres a project I did early after our arrival here (it only took me 5 months to get it online!). Consider it a trailer, a tiny glimpse of a larger project yet to come. Unfortunately, the quality leaves several things to be desired.<br /><br /><object width="425" height="350"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/f3pz_rIl66M"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/f3pz_rIl66M" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed></object><br /><br />DCdaniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-56639312334364668272007-06-10T17:31:00.000-05:002007-06-10T18:00:18.135-05:00Wedding Videography<a href="http://lh5.google.com/image/ashercollins/RmsBopnbbuI/AAAAAAAABHU/D-3PoIWy2lo/IMG_5148.JPG?imgmax=640"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ashercollins/RmsBopnbbuI/AAAAAAAABHU/D-3PoIWy2lo/IMG_5148.JPG?imgmax=640" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />On many weekends in Addis, you will be bombarded by a barrage of horns honking, then witness a long <br />processional of cars led by a truck with a fellow hanging out the window, hoisting a videocamera on his shoulder pointing at a white Mercedes with a ribbon on the hood. There's a distinct sensation that this type of parading would never be permitted in 'no cruise zones," or perhaps some type of funeral procession has gone seriously wack. But as it seems, almost every wedding employs this ritual in Addis, apparently an integral component of Ethiopian weddings.<br /><br />So when I filmed a wedding on Saturday, it was to my relief that I was not asked to sit on a doorwindow filming a car drive down the street. One of my student's older brother was getting married and I was asked to do the videography. I was reluctant to do it at first because my wedding videography days are in the past (so I had hoped!) and I am primarily occupied with two projects already. The fact that I had very little instruction regarding expectations concerned me because of the nature of wedding videographers in Addis: aggressive, ubiquitous and all up in the bride/groom's grill. <br /><br />This of course, aint the way I like to do things, so I was happy that no one seemed to scowl at me as I did my best at 'blending' myself into the surroundings, as my uncle taught me to do. The ceremony and reception were largely western in feeling, but the entire crowd of guests sang songs throughout the duration of both. It was joyous revelry in the best sense of the word. <br /><br />I was glad to have filmed the day for the newlyweds, now if I can just find a moment to edit it for them before 02 July.<br /><br />DCdaniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-56542014747742818012007-06-10T17:06:00.000-05:002007-06-10T17:13:00.826-05:00Attack of the Hippo<a href="http://lh6.google.com/image/ashercollins/RmxrmpnbbyI/AAAAAAAABIg/42qbIlJP-Lg/DSC04233.JPG?imgmax=576"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ashercollins/RmxrmpnbbyI/AAAAAAAABIg/42qbIlJP-Lg/DSC04233.JPG?imgmax=576" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br />Two of the 10th graders on our trip are avid hunters. In fact, they had to be reminded not to sneak their bows or other such deadly weapons onto the van. Of course, as soon as we arrive on the compound, an air soft pistol emerges and thereafter the bargaining for new weapons ensues. <br /><br />One out of every four guards down-country carries an old soviet rifle. The other three carry 6 foot long spears. The spear tips are well crafted and the opposite end is weighted to balance the piece into a flying javelin for accurate defense and other things like, hunting.<br /><br />By the third day, all 7 males (5 students and both male leaders) are all slinging spears on the way to breakfast, devotions and other daily activities. The students negotiated to buy the homemade spears from the guards for 70-100 ET Birr each. Empty water bottles are practice targets, and each night several of the guys dress in their camo get-up and disappear into the forest with headlamps.<br /><br />The final night, we have a bonfire on the beach and sing and talk with hot chocolate and snacks. At one point, there is a sudden crash in the water and one of the students begins beefing up the fire. Another students flips on the headlamp and peers into the darkness. The rest of us don't pay it any mind.<br /><br />Before long, the two students are clutching their spears and interrupt the fireside chat: "Ok, we need to get moving." Of course, this is rude in the midst of group discussion, so they must urge us a second time: "I think we have a hippo just come offshore and we need to get out of here." They go onto to suggest that everyone should stay calm and not worry that Hippos are one of the fastest land animals in Africa and kill more people every year than lions. Before we leave, the two guys in camo grab sticks still blazing with fire in one hand and poise their spears with their other hand over their head. Of course, I have my spear and naturally follow suit. But instead of a firestick in my other hand, I have a kettle of hot chocolate. As we near the beach's end, they look over their shoulder and remind us not to come in between a hippo and the water. Apparently, thats what makes them panic.<br /><br />The 12 passenger van awaits us at the top of the hill. We only have to make it back there. Right before we clear the beach, the student in the front drops his torch and we spill into each other. With only flashlights now, the groups peers left, then right. I quickly suggest to keep moving and soon we are encouraged to be loud and make as much commotion as possible. By the time the group has reached the van, the two camo students have vanished back into the woods. We get in the van, and following our good adult leader instincts, we drive immediately back to the cabin, leaving them to spear hippos alone.<br /><br />DCdaniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-22731194029823679282007-06-09T17:26:00.001-05:002007-06-10T17:28:58.866-05:00The final week of school<a href="http://lh5.google.com/image/ashercollins/RmsHapnbbvI/AAAAAAAABHc/FKrVd3o5kNI/IMG_4980.JPG?imgmax=640"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ashercollins/RmsHapnbbvI/AAAAAAAABHc/FKrVd3o5kNI/IMG_4980.JPG?imgmax=640" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />As good as it was to escape the Addis pollution and classroom shenanigans for a full week, it was even better to be back at Bingham, home again. The Langano outhouse, AKA the Shintabait in Amharic, could have been much worse. The food went over splendidly (of course), but the kids had to be tracked down for every meal and for each session of KP. <br /><br />When we arrived home Friday afternoon, we realized a new void, and the creeping sensation of departure looming. Our good friends, the Millers, left while we were away. They originally had intended to stay 2 years but due to a glitch in the family planning, are now returning to Ohio to expand their empire. Little Miller #2 is due in Sept. But of course, the most painful part about this whole situation is that T-Man (age 3) has left with them. <br /><br />What this means is that the mass exodus is about to begin. By next Monday, the majority of folks from Bingham will be gone. With only 5 days of classes left, our time here is vanishing before our eyes. <br /><br /><a href="http://lh6.google.com/image/ashercollins/RmsIj5nbbwI/AAAAAAAABHk/YfVEPmqin7o/IMG_4990.JPG?imgmax=640"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ashercollins/RmsIj5nbbwI/AAAAAAAABHk/YfVEPmqin7o/IMG_4990.JPG?imgmax=640" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />P.S. T-Man did not like to be disturbed while eating his precious Starbursts.<br /><br />DCdaniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-32643231274886092402007-06-09T16:55:00.000-05:002007-06-09T17:25:21.506-05:00Back from Langano<a href="http://lh3.google.com/image/ashercollins/RmsArJnbbtI/AAAAAAAABHM/O4MMmY00-u8/IMG_5096.JPG?imgmax=640"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ashercollins/RmsArJnbbtI/AAAAAAAABHM/O4MMmY00-u8/IMG_5096.JPG?imgmax=640" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br />The trip was delightful for a number of reasons, but chiefly for getting out of the classroom and seeing more countryside over the 2 days of traveling, and 3 full days at Langano.<br /><br />9 students and 4 adults is a good number for driving down country for four hours. We stayed at the SIM compound by the lake, which has a school for about 200 kids, ranging from 7-20 years old. Since no one has birth certificates, if you can wrap you arm over your head and touch your opposite ear, your old enough to enroll. We painted their 4 classrooms and then played with the school kids in the afternoons. We taught them how to play Bingo, Checkers, and the art of Legos.<br /><br />I brought out the clown balloons and as soon I squeaked out a little wiener dog, the kids would all grab it and pop it instantly. Everytime. It would be safe to say they had not seen a balloon before, much less a rubber dog with a poor figure.<br /><br />Since everyone there speaks Oromo, even the 10th Graders who knew Amharic were at a loss trying to say the word for Duck and Goose. So instead, we taught the kids how to play "horse, horse, donkey." It was a smash hit. After about 10 minutes into the game, a 8 year old girl patted my head and called me a donkey. Naturally, I tore off after her. She soon realized that I was going to catch her, so she quickly turned off the circle's track and ran barefoot into the woods. I had no choice but to follow suit. When I caught her, I instantly realized why she sidestepped at the last minute. I ran directly into a evil thorny briar patch of needles. At this point, the kids really like this 'horse, horse, donkey' game even more.<br /><br /><a href="http://lh6.google.com/image/ashercollins/Rmr9UJnbbrI/AAAAAAAABG8/e00XFzVB5Os/IMG_5075.JPG?imgmax=640"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ashercollins/Rmr9UJnbbrI/AAAAAAAABG8/e00XFzVB5Os/IMG_5075.JPG?imgmax=640" border="0" alt="" /></a>daniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-65974618427430235302007-06-03T09:36:00.000-05:002007-06-03T09:51:27.666-05:00Black Gold<embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://picasaweb.google.com/s/c/bin/slideshow.swf" width="400" height="267" flashvars="host=picasaweb.google.com&captions=1&RGB=0x000000&feed=http%3A%2F%2Fpicasaweb.google.com%2Fdata%2Ffeed%2Fapi%2Fuser%2Fashercollins%2Falbumid%2F5071353079759256257%3Fkind%3Dphoto%26alt%3Drss" pluginspage="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer"></embed> <br /><br />Its hard to imagine sorting coffee beans all day long for 50 cents. But thats what the women make at the Export Coffee Factory where they sit for 8-9 hours corralled in long rows, endlessly separating bad beans from good beans. The conveyor belt keeps an ample supply at their fingertips, and they hardly look up from their work when our class of 21 8th graders enter the factory to see for ourselves what the Black Gold <a href="http://www.blackgoldmovie.com/">documentary </a>so powerfully portrays. <br /><br />Even though the <a href="http://www.treehugger.com/files/2007/06/black_gold_wake.php ">Oromio Coffee Farmers Union</a> doesn't seem to have done anything for these working conditions or wages, they are dramatically improving the circumstances for Ethiopia's coffee farmers. Particularly now with the Black Gold documentary telling their story. Ethiopia, whose claim to fame is the invention of coffee, exports the good stuff all over the world. The country is pretty much dependent on it, as it more or less keeps the "economic pistons pumping." However, even as the coffee industry as risen dramatically over the last few years, the Ethiopian farmers are still getting a pitiful price for their pure product.<br /><br />Our class really enjoyed watching it, and it has some great footage of Addis and the Ethiopian countryside. If you happen to see it, you might not ever enjoy your 5 dollar Venti soy latte double shot expresso Americano the same. And to hear that from my wife--now that's saying something.<br /><br />DCdaniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-33243172657305110362007-06-03T09:21:00.000-05:002007-06-09T16:53:01.262-05:00Lake Langano<a href="http://lh6.google.com/image/ashercollins/Rmr1tJnbbmI/AAAAAAAABGU/u1gz-pJ80w8/IMG_4997.JPG?imgmax=640"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ashercollins/Rmr1tJnbbmI/AAAAAAAABGU/u1gz-pJ80w8/IMG_4997.JPG?imgmax=640" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br />(Written last Monday morning, 04 June)<br /><br />The MTW team from Athens, GA arrived on Friday for two weeks, which makes leaving for Lake Langano on Monday somewhat poor timing. But we are chaperoning the Grade 10 trip until Friday, and it means another venture down country. It’s a four hour trip, which means it will be the farthest south we will have ventured from Addis. Our third descent into malaria country.<br /><br />Betsy is responsible for all the week's cooking, and since there will only be about 13 of us, it wouldn’t seem that big of a job. She started a week in advance and has been to roughly a half dozen shops to find enough supplies, materials, etc. We also had our houseworker helping cook for the past two days. Our entire apartment is brimming with food. We have held the Andy G mantra close to the heart while planning: “The trip can be terrible, it can rain everyday, and nobody have any fun, but as long as there is great food, everyone will have a blast!” Any time that Betsy heads to the market for ‘one last thing,’ I try to eat some of the delicious food without her noticing. I have been unsuccessful so far.<br /><br />Meanwhile, grades are due today (Monday), so I have done nothing else than grade tests, quizzes and assignments that have been waiting for me all semester. Finally, I am done. After hours and hours of marking, it feels good. Now, if 15 June is the last day of class and grades have already been submitted, what do we do the last two weeks of school? I have no idea, which is why I am going Langano!<br /><br />If you have any ideas what we should do the last week of school, or can think of any ideas other than grade their Nintendo Wii form/skills, leave us a comment. Otherwise, we will be putting the Wii up on the big screen!<br /><br />DCdaniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-4160021737471995432007-06-03T01:56:00.001-05:002007-06-03T09:21:23.091-05:00Journey to Bahir Dar<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.google.com/image/ashercollins/Rl-ecsGiOmI/AAAAAAAABDc/6nx3DnRxCXY/IMG_4815.JPG?imgmax=640"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ashercollins/Rl-ecsGiOmI/AAAAAAAABDc/6nx3DnRxCXY/IMG_4815.JPG?imgmax=640" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br />Since we spent more time on the road than we did awake in Bahir Dar, its only fitting to describe the journey in all its dusty detail. Escaping Addis Saturday morning, the highway is not only paved but <span style="font-style: italic;">smooth</span>. This lasts for almost two hours, but the superbly constructed pavement is quickly forgotten because (just like in Addis) it is mainly a pedestrian footpath and 80 kph automobiles are inconveniences. Before passing Debra Libanos, we pass at least 4 overturned, upside-down trucks. The truck's cargo still litters the roadside. Groups of people have lined up to watch the spectacle and some of them are selling portions of its contents. <br><br>From there, approaching the Blue Nile Gorge is an hour descent into dust and gravel. The road is unpaved, unforgiving, and makes both genders wish they had worn sports bras. The whole way down, bananas and pringles cans are rolling around the back and dust is pouring in the windows. At the bottom, we forget that all bridge photography is considered terrorist scheming--prompting confiscation or deletion. I stow my camera as the guard flags us down and the interrogation begins. I quickly confess that Jim is guilty and should be searched. Thus, he has to manually delete any jpeg with vague similarities to the vicinity. <br><br>After 10 hours of driving, we arrive in Bahir Dar. Its too dark to find our first choice hotel which is known for its 'personality'. Our second choice hotel makes up in cleanliness what it lacks in ambiance, or so the Lonely Planet tells us. <br><br>Sunday we pay 300ETB to see the island monasteries and the outlet of the Nile. I have the Sony FX1 wrapped up in B's raincoat and each time the rickety boat takes a surge I wonder how I am going to tread water and keep the camera above my head. Before long, we pass a hippo swimming in the water and I wish I could trade my breakfast for some Dramamine. <br><br>The monasteries are several centuries old and have communion services twice a year. Each one has a 20ETB entrance fee. If you've seen one,...<br><br>The Blue Nile Falls are instantly the highlight. Even though most of the water has been diverted to a hydroelectric dam, its breathtaking. Of course we pay for a guide, mainly to fend off children selling local fare (which might be mistaken for folk art) and to tell the little guy playing the flute to hold still for the faranj with the video camera.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com/image/ashercollins/Rl-f68GiOoI/AAAAAAAABDs/JQU-bMIQAhE/IMG_4888.JPG?imgmax=640"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ashercollins/Rl-f68GiOoI/AAAAAAAABDs/JQU-bMIQAhE/IMG_4888.JPG?imgmax=640" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br />The drive back on Monday is the same thing all over again except when instead of passing cargo trucks, we pass a passenger bus which has slipped off the highway over the mountainside. It dangles almost vertical on the steep mountainside, crushed by its fall. <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ashercollins/Bahirdar/photo#s5070800132784667074">Right about then</a>, I decide I wont be taking public trans across Ethiopia, even if an all day journey is only 50ETB. <br><br>DC<br><br>daniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-19111097581529113982007-05-25T15:26:00.000-05:002007-05-25T15:37:53.516-05:00Fekadu's KrarI have been on the search for a <a href="http://tezeta.org/13/the-krar">krar</a> for some time. Most of the ones I have seen are souvenirs, and by that I mean, something best left alone hanging on the wall. When I found out that there was a man associated with Bingham who played the Krar, I decided to try and track him down. I called SIM and they put me right through. I told Ato Fekadu that I wanted to him to come play at Bingham, and I also hoped he would help me find a Krar for myself.<br /><br /><a href="http://lh6.google.com/image/ashercollins/RlW6N1F5ePI/AAAAAAAABAM/eouD9GMrn2c/IMG_4207.JPG?imgmax=640"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ashercollins/RlW6N1F5ePI/AAAAAAAABAM/eouD9GMrn2c/IMG_4207.JPG?imgmax=640" border="0" alt="" /></a> <br /><br />Two weeks later, he arrived with two friends, both slinging krars. They played at tea time for staff and then for a large group of students. Everybody loved it.<br /><br />Then this morning, he called me to say that he would like to give me one of his krars that he built by hand. I was shocked. He would not let me pay him for his craftsmanship. Finally, he allowed me to contribute toward the cost of materials. <br /><br /><a href="http://lh4.google.com/image/ashercollins/RlW5HVF5eNI/AAAAAAAAA_8/03KRyh6FTUA/IMG_4203.JPG?imgmax=640"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ashercollins/RlW5HVF5eNI/AAAAAAAAA_8/03KRyh6FTUA/IMG_4203.JPG?imgmax=640" border="0" alt="" /></a> <br /><br />He arrived outside our apartment at 7AM and I was barely quick enough to try to sneak some extra Birr into an envelope for his handmade krar. After the handoff, I made for the apartment. He caught me redhanded before I escaped. Grudgingly, I took back the additional money. Its a beautful piece:<br /><br /><a href="http://lh3.google.com/image/ashercollins/RlXEtFF5ebI/AAAAAAAABBs/dnB_56354RE/IMG_4627.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ashercollins/RlXEtFF5ebI/AAAAAAAABBs/dnB_56354RE/IMG_4627.JPG?imgmax=512" border="0" alt="" /></a> <br /><br />Also, there are some <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ashercollins/Krar/photo#s5068160491247466706">more photos here</a> from the last week or two.<br /><br /><br />DC, aspiring azmaridaniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-55409133520256162412007-05-18T18:26:00.000-05:002007-05-18T18:33:40.016-05:00Slideshow<embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://picasaweb.google.com/s/c/bin/slideshow.swf" width="288" height="192" flashvars="host=picasaweb.google.com&captions=1&RGB=0x000000&feed=http%3A%2F%2Fpicasaweb.google.com%2Fdata%2Ffeed%2Fapi%2Fuser%2Fashercollins%2Falbumid%2F5066002635253446609%3Fkind%3Dphoto%26alt%3Drss" pluginspage="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer"></embed>daniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-59899878608343602392007-05-14T08:10:00.000-05:002007-05-14T08:12:32.005-05:00Last week Alemu called me at the office to see if I could come to a <br>beneficiary's home and give him some help. Dr. John White (the newest <br>MTW person here) and Alemu (my favorite Abasha nurse-social worker at <br>the project) were seeing a very ill woman, named Asgernish.<p>As I pulled up in my large diesel Bingham pick-up truck, two men were <br>carrying her out of the corrugated tin gate of her compound. She was <br>too weak to even hobble. One man got in with Asgernish into the back <br>seat. Alemu hopped in beside them and John got into the front seat. <br>Alemu directed me to drive toward ICL -- International Clinical <br>Laboratories. John softly informed me to roll my window down, as <br>Asgernish is suffering from Tuberculosis.<p>Asgernish is HIV+, has AIDS, TB, a serious GI infection, and mental <br>issues which are the result of her suffering from AIDS before she was <br>on ARVs. Previously, she was admitted to Black Lion -- Ethiopia's <br>most prestigious teaching hospital, just to be quickly released after <br>receiving some IV fluids and told that she needs more lab tests. And <br>since the premier teaching hospital isn't proactively running basic <br>tests for Asgernish, our project is taking her to a lab to get tested <br>for typhoid or any other bug which might be causing her GI infection.<p>Asgernish lays against the shoulder of her brother as we fight <br>downtown afternoon traffic to climb the hill to ILC. Alemu later told <br>me that her brother has helped Asgernish so much as she has fought <br>against AIDS. It was amazing the way he cared for her, even during <br>the ride. He held her hand, helped to readjust her headscarf, and <br>rubbed her shoulder silently.<p>Of course there is road work (aka guys digging up ditches with pick <br>axes on major roads), and momentarily I am stuck in a busy <br>intersection, waiting for the one lane of traffic to clear for my <br>passage to ILC. Taxis are not happy that I am clogging up a major <br>intersection just to get Asgernish to the lab, henceforth they are <br>wildly shouting and honking and trying to get me to take another road.<p>We don't give way to the taxis, and eventually make our way to ILC. <br>Asgernish is too weak to get out of the truck, so the John and Alemu <br>go inside and come out with a lab technician. The lab tech proceeds <br>to draw a large vial of blood from Asgernish in the back of the <br>truck. Asgernish's brother comforts her through the entire ordeal. <br>After the necessary sample has been obtained, we head back to the <br>office to get instant oatmeal for Asgernish to eat as she can hardly <br>keep anything down. The last thing she needs to be eating is injera <br>be wat.<p>While we head back to Asgernish's house (or tin shack, as it would <br>more aptly be called), I think about lackadaisical attitude of Black <br>Lion in comparison to Asgernish's loving brother.daniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-7409780203099976182007-04-23T13:28:00.000-05:002007-04-23T13:55:32.025-05:00You are My Sister!<a href="http://lh6.google.com/image/ashercollins/Riz5Gck4bxI/AAAAAAAAA8E/um9Aq-PhPh0/IMG_3582.JPG?imgmax=576"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ashercollins/Riz5Gck4bxI/AAAAAAAAA8E/um9Aq-PhPh0/IMG_3582.JPG?imgmax=576" border="0" alt="" /></a> <br /><br />Not that I was beginning to envy DC's road experiences, but last Friday I finally joined the ranks and completed my indoctrination into the driving scene in Addis. A faranj once told me that there are two types of drivers in Addis: Those-Who've-Been-Hit and Those-Who-Will-Be-Hit. <br /><br />Within my first month of driving here, I had an old Corolla attempt to pass me on the right in a crowded parking lot. Not only did I had my right signal blinking away but I had legally turned into the lot first before the blazing white Corolla barged through in my blind spot. Anyway, the result was a very minor fender-bender. I had the upper hand in that I was the one in a large, 4WD, diesel truck. Naturally, he sped off before I could even inspect the damage.<br /><br />This time around however, something happened that I cannot blame on outside forces. I attempted to enter the only divided highway in the country by using an exit. Since 98% of the people with drivers' license here obey 2% of the traffic laws I figured it would not be out of the ordinary. And to avoid the sprawling traffic jam in Toro-helich, I pulled an Ethiopian move, and did what I've seen many people do: I sneaked onto the highway from the exit ramp. To my dismay, two police officers, on foot, appear from nowhere on the highway and begin blowing a referee whistle at me to pull over. Part of me thinks, I have open road and an automobile, these guys have a small whistle and boots --- why should I pull over? However, no need to mess with the law in a country that has a shaky political and legal system. I don't care to end up in some jail on the top of Entoto Mountain. So, after I pull over onto the right lane (there is no shoulder, I am just in one lane of the highway), a police officer ambles up to the window to say 'You have made big mistake, big mistake.' <br /><br />Of course, I feign innocence, 'Really? I can't enter there? Oh, I didn't know! I am soooo sorry.' He asks for my license, takes a cursory look, and tells me he will have to write me a ticket and I can go to the police station in my kebele and pay it. It will cost 140 ETB (18 bucks). The thought of having to go to any government office for any unnecessary reason is very unsavory. So, I gently ask the officer, 'Is there anyway I can just pay HERE? Can't I just pay YOU, and not have to go to the kebele office?' Instantly, the police officer changes his tone. He asks me how I am doing. He asks me what country I am from. I tell him America and he gushes, 'Very cool country.' He proceeds to call me Sister, and tells me that I am his friend and I must come to his house for coffee or tea. When I gently ask again about settling up here, he informs me that because I am his Sister, I can pay now and not have to bring a ticket to the kebele (since traffic tickets often block expat's exit visa --I am more than happy to settle on the ring road). So, next I tell him all I have is 100 ETB ($11.25), and without hesitation he says 'Oh that is fine, because you are MY SISTER.' As I drive away, I realize I had effectively bribed a police officer out of a traffic violation, firmly cementing my status as a regular African driver.<br /><br />Elizabethdaniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35066620.post-53629368601044248692007-04-16T14:16:00.000-05:002007-04-16T14:24:44.816-05:00Holey Saturday<a href="http://www.uh.edu/engines/cakedoughnut.jpg?imgmax=640"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://www.uh.edu/engines/cakedoughnut.jpg?imgmax=640" border="0" alt="" /></a> <br /><br />Saturday I deep fried homemade donuts with 12 teenage girls in Lideta.<br /><br />The AIDS project hosts a weekly meeting for daughters of beneficiaries or other girls from the neighborhood in a youth group fashion. These girls are generally missing at least one if not two parents (either a parent is dead, or a dad has left). They haven't had much of a normal childhood -- they haven't had all that creative play time that the Western world bestows on children.<br /><br />So, you have these 15-year-old girls who basically come from the ghetto, getting together once a week to play, learn and talk. A couple weeks ago we took them bowling. They didn't even know what bowling was until we showed them how to do it. Last week we talked about what a pattern is so they could make jewelry--most of them didn't know what a pattern was. You might think this stuff would be a little childish for teenage girls, but since they've never really had much of a chance to play and be creative, they really enjoy it.<br /><br />It was rainy all day, and so we made donuts. I had made the dough the day before (to save time and clean up) so the girls rolled out the dough and cut out the donuts (Bev has a real donut cutter!).<br /><br />While the donuts were rising and the oil heating, Bev led the group in a devotion. We talked about how every person has a hole in their heart that feels empty. The hole is often the cause of sadness in loneliness. Adam & Eve didn't have this hole until the whole thing with Satan happened in the garden. But since the fall, all humans are created with a hole in the heart that separates them from other people and God.<br /><br />We talked about what kind of things people try to use to fill the holes in their hearts. The girls came up with some good answers. Selam said that some people use good education, good manners and good position in society to fill their hole. Lemlem said that some people try to do lots of good things, things that the church wants people to do, so that these works will make them happy.<br /><br />Then we talked about how Jesus is really the only thing that can completely fill the hole. All other things that we try to fill the hole with are never enough. If we try to fill the hole with anything but Jesus, we will be inevitably disappointed.<br /><br />After the girls had talked and listened for half an hour, we raucously deep fried many donuts and donut holes. The girls had a ball with the powdered sugar, and we all ruined our supper with donuts!<br /><br />Elizabethdaniel and betsyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00611165310273442552noreply@blogger.com2